picture of a waterfall in the distance surrounded by green jungle

Things to do in Eastern Costa Rica

Pro Tips

  • I would recommend renting a car unless you’re taking a tour.
  • If you’re driving in the country, know that many cars will flash their lights at you instead of honking to signal their displeasure.
  • Drivers turn on their hazards when they’re going to slow down for stuff like a traffic jam or even for an upcoming turn.
  • Make sure to rent a car that can handle huge potholes
  • Before heading out, check out the route on google maps and LOOK at the condition of the roads. Google Maps will recommend taking dirt roads. Don’t. They are awful, long and a great way to get stuck somewhere.
  • I’d recommend not driving long distances at night if you can help it.
  • Be prepared for fog and heavy rain. Know what to do in both.
  • Rental companies will give you the option of renting electric vehicles but we didn’t see many charging stations so best to get gas.
  • Bring a light for your camera. The rainforest is often dark and you’ll get better animal photos if you have a light.
  • I brought hiking shoes and didn’t end up wearing them. I wore wool socks with my Keens sandals. My feet dried quickly and stayed cool. If you’re going on legit, off-trail hikes then I’d recommend something sturdier, especially since Costa Rica has so many venomous snakes.
  • Bring lots of DEET and long-sleeved quick dry pants/shirts. Costa Rica does have ticks and breakbone fever, and you do NOT want to get it.
  • That being said, before you go out, know where hospitals are that carry anti-venom. And look up what to do if you’re bitten. You have about three hours before the damage becomes permanent.
  • Before you head out, stop by a store and pick up electrolytes. It’s good to have on hand in case you get traveler’s diarrhea.
  • When you book a flight, get extra leg room (ELR). The seats are much smaller in Latin America and ELR seats are like regular North American seats. If you actually need ELR then you’ll need to look at business or first class seats.
  • If you’re flying Avianca, do not sleep if you want a snack/drink. They will not ask you if you want something. You must flag down the cart and ask yourself.
  • “Qué chiva” means “how cool.”
  • People really do say “Qué pura vida” a lot!
  • In the U.S., “Mucho gusto” usually means “nice to meet you” but in Costa Rica it’s used in another way, too. It’s often said by a waiter at a restaurant after you’ve ordered food and means something like “with pleasure.”
  • Don’t post pictures on social media of anybody handling animals. It could get the rescue in trouble and their funding rescinded.
  • Make sure a rescue is legit before visiting. If you get to handle any of the animals, it’s not legit and you shouldn’t give them your money.
  • Don’t spend money on a hotel/airbnb with a beautiful view. Firstly, it rains ALL the time so you’re likely to not even get the view. Secondly, people don’t lie but they do fib a lot so the photos you see on the website are probably not super accurate.
  • All the places we stayed at in the rainforest had their showers outside. This is great if you’re really into nature, but not great if you’re prone to mosquito bites! I would try to get a room with the shower indoors.
  • People will often tell you what you want to hear but not actually follow through. They’re trying to be polite, but if you don’t know how things roll, it can be frustrating and confusing. I had to see the doctor, and I asked the nurse when he’d be back. He said that the doctor would be back in 10 minutes because that’s obviously what I wanted to hear. Forty-five minutes later… Don’t trust that someone will follow through. Either go with the flow or do what you need to do to make it happen
  • Bring ear plugs. Construction happens at all hours. People let their dogs roam around and get into fights/howling contests. A lot of houses are made of metal containers and the rain falling on them is very loud.
  • If you get severely dehydrated, go to a Unimed and see a doctor to get an IV. It’ll cost you like $150 for a few hours, and they’re meant for tourists so they’ll speak English. I got sick while I was there, and it was definitely worth the money to feel better.
  • We didn’t get to do this, but I wanted to add this to our itinerary: https://badgeofawesome.com/400-metre-jungle-waterslide-costa-rica/

San José Airport

When transferring/layovers, keep the receipt for anything you buy in the airport because you’ll need it when you get searched or they’ll just throw it away.

We didn’t change over any money at the airport, and we didn’t need to. Most places take credit card or US dollars.

When we landed, we stayed nearby at the Fairfield Inn. It was a little noisy between 8 and 9 a.m. when most people seemed to be heading down to breakfast, but it was super quiet overall, and I got a good sleep. Everyone there was very friendly and the checkout time was noon!

I find that travel makes my stomach a bit finicky so we ordered from Denny’s a lot. It’s on Uber Eats, and you can get it delivered to the hotel even late at night!

Poas Volcano

picture of a couple wearing quick dry clothing in front of a caldera filled with turquoise liquid

Book tickets online before going. Arriving late isn’t an issue. Be prepared to pay for parking and bring a mask if needed (for the sulfur). If you’re sensitive, plan for a shorter visit. Avoid rainy days, as you probably won’t be able to see anything. I loved the path up the side of the volcano—it was full of huge, beautiful plants I’ve only seen in greenhouses! Lots of birds, too, so make sure to download Cornell’s bird ID app on your phone. The paths weren’t crowded, and we just sat at the top of mountain and watched the clouds roll in. It was very calming, and I felt close to nature.

La Fortuna Waterfall

two people wearing safari hats smile in foreground and you see a waterfall in the background surrounded by jungle

The La Fortuna Waterfall was underwhelming. The photo above is exactly the same picture you’ll get. Loud music from the restaurant and nearby construction* scared away wildlife, and the orchids on the Orchid Walk were tiny and not colorful like the ones you find in greenhouses. You can walk down a long staircase to the base of the falls, but swimming is often restricted due to weather. With so many other waterfalls to explore, this one didn’t feel worth the trip. Consider alternatives for a better experience.

*In Latin America, someone is ALWAYS building something. Don’t count on peace and quiet anywhere!

Koki’s

picture of delicious vegetables in a stone bowl

Koki Beach Restaurant was the best place we ate! It was a standout experience! Sit in Fabian’s section—he was amazing and kindly lowered the music for me due to my sound sensitivity. The veggie rice dish was fresh, beautifully presented and delicious. Ask to see the owner’s Chavela Vargas museum and the local photography exhibit. The maracuyá crème brûlée is heavenly! Try the local piña arroz drink and their amazing piña coladas. Note: there’s occasional backfiring cars nearby—an FYI for those with PTSD.

Sloth Sanctuary

picture of baby two toed sloth looking at the camera

The Sloth Sanctuary was the highlight of our trip! Ignacio, our guide, was phenomenal—knowledgeable, engaging and passionate. Make sure to bring extra cash to tip him; he truly deserves it. The private tour is absolutely worth it, offering a more personalized experience. The baby sloths were beyond adorable and unforgettable. This sanctuary is doing incredible work to protect these amazing creatures. I’d return to Costa Rica just to visit this center again. It’s a magical experience and a must-see for any animal lover!

Banana Azul Hotel

The villa was a bit out of date, and unfortunately, we had a lot of mosquitos inside and a large roach. We had to go out and buy a mosquito net, which wasn’t ideal. Getting bitten indoors was not fun. The plunge pool was tiny. The restaurant was decent but nothing special. On the positive side, everyone was friendly, which made communication easy. And there were some cute turtles. Overall, while the location had potential, but it wasn’t worth the price.

Jaguar Tour

Carlos led our jaguar tour, and he was fantastic! The group size was about a dozen. The guides are all volunteers, so make sure to bring cash for tips. We saw amazing wildlife, including a howler monkey, toucan and agouti. The sanctuary has great rules in place to protect the animals, which we really appreciated. The stories were fun, informative, and added a lot to the experience. Highly recommend this tour for anyone looking to learn about wildlife and support conservation efforts! (PS There are no jaguars. They explain the misnomer during the tour!)

Spicy Coconut Restaurant

picture of a stone path that leads to a horizon dotted by palm trees

The service wasn’t friendly, and I felt pressured to order something I didn’t want. However, the maracuyá pina and ginger drink was absolutely delicious! I also appreciated the use of metal straws, which was a nice eco-friendly touch. Landscaping outside the restaurant was gorgeous, and I might stop just to take some photos. Overall, the drinks were the highlight of the visit.

cape town, table mountain, south africa

Top Things to Do in South Africa

This is the list I used when planning my trip to South Africa. Scroll through it and see what jumps out at you. Enjoy your trip, and ping me with any questions!

Johannesburg 

Two days is plenty of time to see all that Joburg has to offer. Tack on an extra day to do quirkier trips and explore the city. Uber is the best (and cheapest) way to get around if you’re new to the city and unaware of its good/bad areas, especially since there aren’t that many sidewalks for walking. Make sure your cell phone works overseas without crazy fees because there’s very little free wifi in this city!

  • Soweto
    • “For real insight into post-apartheid South Africa – a visit to the township of Soweto, home to an estimated 3.5 million people – you need to hire a guide. Besides providing a glimpse into how millions of black South Africans live today, Soweto is historically fascinating. Nobel Peace Prize-winners Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu both lived on tree-lined Vilakazi Street and Mandela’s former home is open to visitors. Left as it once was, Winnie’s military boots stand next to a bed with a jackal-skin throw, and old photos line the walls. Just down the road, the Hector Pieterson Memorial Museum, named after the 13-year-old whose murder by police sparked an uprising in 1976, is another hard-hitting reminder of the horrors of apartheid.” –Condé Nast Traveller
    • The guided tour of Mandela’s home is simply a memorized speech of significant dates. It’s interesting, but don’t expect it to take more than 20 minutes at the maximum.
    • The Hector Pieterson Memorial Museum was fantastic. It did a great job of explaining the uprising and its aftermath. All the feels.
    • I was skeptical of paying $70 to take a tour of Soweto, especially when I’d been told that it’s fine to walk around in the daytime. But I’m really glad we went with Township Travel (Siphiwe Kumalo info@township-travel.co.za sowetour98@gmail.com). The tour offers perspectives, not only from the tour guide, but from residents in their early 20s who take you around their neighborhood and answer all your questions. I highly recommend it!

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New Game: Airport Scavenger Hunt

Necessity is the mother of all invention. Greg and I created this game the last time we were stuck in an airport, waiting for a flight that was more than three hours delayed. Everyone was bored, JetBlue had run out of free chips and the CNN anchors rambling on about the economy just weren’t cutting it as entertainment. We needed a distraction.

The rules of airport scavenger hunt are easy. All you need to do is grow a pair (of ovaries or cojones, take your pick), and talk to strangers. Revolutionary! Each team (*ahem, Greg and I) comes up with 10 questions, picks a section of the airport and then runs around asking questions. The first person to find different people who can answer each of the questions accurately, wins!

But the real win is meeting a whole bunch of really interesting individuals. I was given the opportunity to connect and learn from people whose paths would never again cross with mine—something I rarely take advantage of anymore. It’s amazing how often we go about our days, sitting next to people on the metro, walking past them at parties and never get to know them (even in the most basic sense).

I was surprised at how many stranded passengers wanted to participate, were stoked to get involved and tell their stories. Even those not participating looked pretty darn amused. I like to think our little game made their arduous wait a little less BLARGH. And that’s the whole point of being alive, right? Making things just a little better for others.

When you try the airport scavenger hunt, lmk the questions you used and how people responded!

What to do in Iquitos, Peru (Amazon Rainforest)

 

  • Budget
    • soles/ 12 for taxi
    • s./ 15 per hour canoe rental pp (x 3 hrs s./ 180 total)
    • s./ 6 for bus to lagoon pp
    • s./ 5 for lagoon admission
    • s./ 25 each way to manatee research (s./ 50 total)
    • s./ 5 fee per person for manatee center
    • s./ ?? boat road to butterfly farm (s./ 100 total) (overestimating)
    • s./ 15 butterfly farm
    • s./ 25 taxi to la playa
    • s./ 100 per person/day for food
    • s./ 500 souvenirs

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galapagos, viewpoint, ocean

Planning for a Last-Minute Trip to the Galapagos

The Significant Other and I just got back from a trip to the Galapagos. Rather than gush about HOW COMPLETELY AND UTTERLY AMAZING IT WAS, I’m offering some tips to make your vacation planning easier. The devil is in the details! I think this is pretty extensive, but drop me a line in the comments if you have specific questions.

Booking a Last-Minute Galapagos Cruise

Cruises sound expensive right off the bat, but when you consider how much it costs to explore the Galapagos on your own, cruises can actually be cost-effective. For example, a day tour of North Seymour Island is ~$160. Add $20 for the hostel and $10 for home-cooked food. Factor in all the time and energy you’ll spend booking your own trips, and you’re already pushing $200. When you do the math, cruises aren’t that pricey.

NOTE: It’s impossible to base your budget off anything you read online or in a guidebook. Prices are constantly going up. Keep that in mind, and always bring extra cash in small bills $1, $5, $10.

If you can wait until two weeks before your vacation date to start looking for cruises, you can snag amazing discounts (~60 percent!). Book a flight to Quito, and stay at a hostel in the Mariscal District (NOTE: We stayed at the Traveler’s Inn. The breakfast is free and includes eggs, toast, yogurt, fruits, juice and tea/coffee. The wifi is incredibly slow, and the showers are luke-warm.) This is where all the tour companies have offices. Visit each tour office and see what kinds of deals they’re offering. Tour offices are generally open between 10 a.m.-12 p.m. and from 3 p.m.-5 p.m. They will NOT be open after 12 p.m. on Saturday or at all on Sunday.

Please be aware that all tour operators expect you to pay in cash for the tours—even if it’s a couple thousand dollars. Luckily for U.S. citizens, Ecuador operates in American dollars.

Most tour companies will offer to book the flight for you. I booked the flight on my own so I’m not sure how cost-effective this is, but it’s definitely an option.

NOTE: We almost booked a cruise with Yate Darwin and would highly caution against it. There were many frustrating problems, which I won’t go into here. We ended up booking a four-day Angelito cruise using PalmaRoja Tours. I can’t recommend the Angelito highly enough. The staff was incredibly friendly and helpful. I have several food allergies, and the cook made special meals and snacks for me every day. I never had to worry! It was amazing. Plus, our guide Maja, was the best guide I’ve had in all my years of traveling. Really fantastic company.

If you can’t find a tour you like in Quito, you can hop on a plane to the Galapagos and head directly to Puerto Ayora in Santa Cruz. Tour companies also have offices in this city and will offer deals.

sea lion, galapagos

How to Pick a Galapagos Cruise

After days of research, all the cruises started blurring into one, and I suffered from information overload. I recommend picking the cruise based on the ease of access, animals you want to see, cruise size, days at sea and budget. Make a spreadsheet and assign points—it’s the only way to stay sane.

  • Ease of Access: You can (to my knowledge) take day trips to Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, North Seymour, Floreana, Bartolome, South Plaza and Santa Fe. We chose cruises that took us to islands we couldn’t reach on our own, like Santiago and Espanola.
  • Animals: Each island is known for specific animals. No guarantee you’ll see them, of course, but there were a few endemic species that I was dying to see. For example, North Seymour: blue-footed boobies and frigate males, Santa Cruz: tortoises, Espanola: albatross, Santiago: iguanas, Santa Fe: iguanas. The cruise that promised the most animals won.
  • Cruise Size: Pay attention to the number of people on the boat. Our head count was 16, and it was perfect. Anything larger, and you’re going to get lost in the shuffle. Anything too small and your boat will be so tiny that it bobs up and down with each and every wave. Ugh.
  • Days at Sea: I’m the kind of gal who likes her feet firmly planted on the ground. It was important that we got to see what we wanted to see but didn’t spend unnecessary time on the water. We ended up with a four-day cruise, but I think we also would have enjoyed a five-day. NOTE: six- and seven-day cruises are rare. It’s usually four, five or eight days. Also remember that a “four-day” cruise is really just two days because the cruise doesn’t start till late afternoon on the first day, and ends before 10 a.m. on the last day.
  • Budget: Go in with a budget for your cruise, and follow it. I had tour operators send me “deals” that were two- to three-times more than my max budget. It was tempting, but I had to put my foot down.

frigate, galapagos

Getting to the Galapagos

Flights to the Galapagos: There are two airports in the Galapagos: Baltra and San Cristobal. If you’re thinking of taking a cruise, fly into Baltra. Most (if not all) of the cruises start/end there.

Three airlines go to the Galapagos. TAME appears to be the cheapest at first-glance, but they tack on a whole bunch of fees at checkout that actually make them more expensive. I used Avianca for the most cost-effective flights.

NOTE: Don’t forget that there’s a $120 fee to get into the Galapagos. Airport officials will also search your bags for fresh fruit and animal products. I would highly recommend bringing in your own snacks since healthy food is hard to come by on the islands. They’re OK with dried, packaged fruit, granola bars, even peanut butter sandwiches! If you don’t want your bag locked with plastic ties after getting searched, tell the officials. Keep a pair of nail clippers in case they lock your bag anyway.

Getting into Santa Cruz from the airport: You’re not allowed to walk around Baltra because it’s a military base. You’ll take a short (free!) bus from the airport to Baltra’s dock. A $1 ferry will take you across the river to the island Santa Cruz. From there you can catch a (~$5) bus or take an $18 taxi (in total NOT per person) into town. It’s a 40 minute drive via taxi and longer with the much slower bus.

Taxis are poorly labeled, white Toyota pickup trucks.

Taxis in Santa Cruz: Once you’re in town, taxi rides should be about 50 cents per person up to $1 max. Taxi drivers often pick up multiple people so don’t be alarmed if a few strangers hop into the cab.

Snorkeling tips: Snorkeling is transportation, right? A few tips to enjoy your snorkeling experience: Try on your mask before leaving land. If you can press it to your face (without using the straps) and it stays in place, it’s a good fit. If you need glasses, bring your own prescription goggles as there aren’t any (that we saw) on the islands. Or you can make your own prescription goggles. Spit on your lenses or use baby shampoo to keep them from fogging up. If you have facial hair, your mask might not fit well. Slather on some vaseline to help make the seal. Your flippers shouldn’t fit comfortably when you’re on land. They need to be a little tight because they’ll loosen up in the water. Check the snorkel mouthpiece to make sure it has two notches to bite on. I’d recommend renting a full-body wetsuit for sun protection, added buoyancy and extra warmth (the water can get chilly).

Galapagos

Things to Do in the Galapagos

I’ll write another post with an outline of our cruise. These are the two day trips we took outside the cruise.

San Cristobal

We went snorkeling off Kicker Rock and explored Cerro Brujo beach for $100 with the tour company Cindy Sol. They were very professional and served a delicious lunch. I would highly recommend their services. I don’t have the cross street for the company’s office, but the harbor area is tiny (only ~five blocks) so you can either ask for directions or walk up and down the streets until you run into Cindy Sol). NOTE: Tour agencies close in the afternoon to avoid the heat and open up again in the evening. I’d recommend booking a day trip the night before. However, most tours leave at 8:30 or 9 a.m. so you can also show up at the office around 8 a.m. and book any available seats on the spot.

Stay at Casa Mabell for $20 per person. The hostel doesn’t have a microwave, and the owner doesn’t speak English. But the place is spotless, has AC, is two minutes from the shore, and if you can speak a little Spanish, the owner will help you book tours.

Get your laundry cleaned for $1.50/kilo at La Lavanderia Rosita. We gave our clothes to them at 8 p.m., and they had everything done by 3 p.m. the next day. Great service.

North Seymour

Booked this tour with Esmeralda III. We wouldn’t recommend this boat. The guide was unnecessarily rude. The tour also promised to take us to North Seymour in the morning (better wildlife pictures!) and then snorkeling in the afternoon (cooling off!). Instead, we spent far too much time snorkeling in the morning and saw no wildlife. Then, during the heat of the day, we were rushed around North Seymour. I absolutely loved the island (we saw blue-footed boobies and frigates!), but go with a different tour company.

Signing off for now! More tips later, and please add your own!